The Edinburgh Wine Club 

 Tasting Notes March 21st 2024

An Exploration of German Trocken

No. Grape % Provider £ Comments Rank
1/. Hanewald- Schwerdt,Sekt 2019 Riesling 11.5 WoodWinters 18.00 The first of ten “Trocken” (dry) German wines. And the first of five from this estate in northern Pfalz (Palatinate), where it sits on a limestone reef with the Harz mountains to the east.
This pleasant Sekt was liked by all. Light, with apples on the nose. Freshness, with a bit of sweetness. Although made by the champagne method, less assertive bubbles than in many sparkling wines, almost pétillant. Perhaps this allowed more flavour to come through.
2/. Hanewald- Schwerdt,Auf der Pochel 2022 Riesling 12.5 WoodWinters 14.00 This is the estate’s big seller. Very pleasant.Were there lychees on the nose? Yes/no/YES!…On the palate citric, mineral, petrol, with hints of tropical fruit. But still a delicate wine with a fragrant end. Not surprisingly this is a well-known wine.(The “Pochel” is a cairn built by people moving stones out of the vineyards) Best Value (tied)
3/. Hanewald- Schwerdt,Gewurtztraminer 2022 11.5 WoodWinters 13.00 A very delicate, light Gewurtztraminer. More subtle, and less in your face, than the more assertive Gewurtz normal in Alsace. Distinct notes of melon – Honeydew!
4/. Hanewald- Schwerdt,Reitefad 2021 Riesling 13 WoodWinters 18.00 The bouquet was lighter, but on the palate this had more body and was heavier than the previous Rieslings. Not much petrol or minerality, but an explosive end – too explosive for some! A more intense wine, despite being from a lighter year. 3rd (7 points) Best White
5/. The Society’s ExhibitionRheingau Riesling 2020 Riesling 12.5 Wine Society 14.50 This wine comes from Hochheim am Main, the town which led to the use of “hock” to describe Rhine Rieslings. These wines were popular in Victorian times, and the Wine Society asked a leading producer to provide a modern take on this German classic.We found this a very, very good wine. A subtle and pleasant bouquet with a touch of petrol. The palate was less acidic and slightly sweeter than the previous rieslings, again with petrol notes, and a hint of fizz.
6/. Julg vom Kalk 2022 Weissburgunder 12.5 Wine Society 14.95 This lovely wine had a degree of richness, but was not sweet. Intriguingly, the grapes are grown in Alsace but made into wine in Germany. Pinot Blanc may be bottom of the pile in Alsace, but is popular in Switzerland. Best Value (tied)
7/. Ruppertsberger Linsenbusch 2022 Grauer Burgunder 13 Wine Society 8.95 Tropical fruits on the nose. There is balanced fruit acidity on the palate (definitely acidity rather than minerality). The acidity then mellows into tropical fruits during the long finish.
8/. Anselmann Edesheimer Rosengarten 2022 Dornfelder 13.5 Wine Society 9.50 Dornfelder is a dark-skinned variety created in 1955 by crossing two other varieties, and is considered to be the most successful of modern German crosses. This very pleasant wine was intense, dark and velvety and went well with food (in our case pâté). It had cherry on the nose, with cherry, liquorice and tobacco on the palate. An old fashioned style of wine. Best Value (tied)
9/. Hanewald- Schwerdt,Spatburgunder 2020 Spatburgunder 13.5 WoodWinters 16.00 Spatburgunder is German for Pinot Noir. This wine was quite young and tannic despite being a 2020. Some found orange peel on the nose, others cherries, others raspberries, and others a vegetal nose! A very interesting wine, intense, noticeably dry with good fruit content – but still easy drinking. 2nd (11 points) Best Value (tied)
10/. Marenges Premier Cru,Le Clos des Loyeres2020 Pinot noir 13.3 Wine Society 26.50 The first of two French Burgundies for comparison. This wine from the southern Côte de Beaune area is neither filtered or fined. It had a velvety richness – classic Burgundy. Less tannin than the previous wine, and more fruit. Blackcurrants for some, blackberries for others, but smoother and more bland than either fruit for yet others!
11/. Domaine Changarnier,Monthelie 2021 Pinot noir 13 Wine Society 29.50 This was another Monthelie to compare with the 2018 vintage tasted at the last tasting. However, 2021was a cooler year than 2018, and this wine was correspondingly different – fresh, lighter in both colour an weight. But still a high class Burgundy.
12/. Hanewald- SchwerdtKalkriff, Leistadt 2019 Spatburgunder 13.5 WoodWinters 22.00 Differing opinions on this last wine. For some much closer to French Burgundy, with cherries on the nose, fresh fruit acidity and a touch of pepper on the palate, good with food, in fact superb! Others found compost heap on the nose, and saw it only as quite nice on the palate, though subtle. Vive la différence! 1st (12 points)





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